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Rainstorm


Clouds-Rainstorm
5" x 8 1/2"
Blick Artists' watercolors
Moleskine watercolor journal.

It rained today and the clouds were changing every minute as I painted. All afternoon it was beautiful and constantly changing, so I painted one of those moments. Sorta plein air, it's from life.
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Comments

( 4 comments — Leave a comment )
inkytwig
Mar. 28th, 2010 01:35 pm (UTC)
Love, love, love this Robert! You should paint bookmarks too. I love this scene and how you captured "the moment"!!!
robertsloan2
Mar. 28th, 2010 02:08 pm (UTC)
Thank you! That's an interesting thought. I did some bookmarks in Celtic knotwork some years ago and liked them, hadn't thought of doing some in watercolor. But they'd be just as easy to laminate and so fast to paint, like doing ATCs!
(Anonymous)
Apr. 26th, 2011 07:25 pm (UTC)
using graphite
I have some set of reeves pencils I got from wall mart only cheapest I like for reeves. then some pencils that cost a dollar and twenty nine cent from the dollar store. not my fancy but I use them" and some that were better. I will use what I try best for me . I been doing this for a while just practicing 5 yrs on drawings but getting ideas to do better by seeing other people like you. I have my own style. I think the more realistic some one tries it does not work. my problem is trying to draw to real. I know it takes time to self teach ur self. I try to practice houses and barns and trees the most I have drawing books two of them. its harder to go by other people but its good to get your ideas
robertsloan2
Apr. 27th, 2011 12:04 am (UTC)
Re: using graphite
There are methods to try drawing realistically with graphite. I can suggest a couple of them - and self teaching is often helped by getting a good book or two from the library. Look for "Drawing the Head and Figure" by Jack Hamm, also "Drawing Scenery: Landscapes and Seascapes" and "How to Draw Animals" by the same author.

One method to get accuracy is to copy or print out a reference photo. Then draw a grid on the print - about 1" squares is good. Then mark up your drawing paper with the same number of squares, but make them bigger, 1 1/2" or 2" squares. Carefully draw everything in one square at a time matching up at the edges. Try drawing them in areas of tone more than lines, all the dark shapes and all the light shapes, leaving white shapes blank. Then erase the guidelines when they fall over light areas.

Another way to do this is to use a grid ruler or ruler. Mark a line across the top of the print of your reference and down one side. Then use a ruler and line it up with a very important detail, like the inside corner of the eye. Measure across from the side and mark that too. Then on your paper, measure twice those distances (again working twice the size) with the rulers and place a very light dot. Then another measured and enlarged for outside corner of the eye. Topmost part of hair. Lowest part of chin. Leftmost side of face. Rightmost side of face. And so on, as many dots as you need.

My first accurate portrait had about 400 "tick marks" dots all falling on edges between light and dark areas. The features were the right size and placed accurately. It took a week but came out very realistic.

A third way to get good accurate drawing is to turn your photo reference upside down and draw it upside down. That breaks up the memory of the symbols for eye, mouth, etc. into random shapes to draw as accurately as possible. It's amazing how much more accurate you can draw with just that simple trick, so try it.

Last, it helps to block in the biggest shapes and place them in the picture with very light guidelines, then go back over them and correct them into the actual shapes. Buildings, pay close attention to the angles of roofs and walls and bases, don't line them up with the sides or top of the paper. You can get accurate perspective just copying a photo or looking at reality if you get those angles right.

Graphite pencils, the Reeves ones are fine! Just be sure to have some H ones (the higher the number, the lighter the graphite and harder the pencil for fine lines) and some B ones (the higher the number, the darker, softer and smudgier the graphite.) Having a range of pencils really helps. HB is "medium." F means "fine" and is the stage between HB and H.
( 4 comments — Leave a comment )

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